Oaxaca Cultural Navigator

Entries categorized as ‘Teotitlan del Valle’

After Day of the Dead Reflection 2009

Thursday, November 5, 2009 · Leave a Comment

There is peace on the hilltop.  Below muffled sounds of drums, bass, voice, amplify across the valley.  A dog sleeps in the sun.  The gringa healer brings sighs of relief to stressed clients.  A breeze blows over the patio bordered by mature agave fifteen feet tall and equally as wide.  A birdsong adds refrain.  In the distance a cock crows and a dog barks.  Dog barks are incessant here.  Light filters softly through the bamboo wall surrounding the outdoor kitchen.  Muertos ends for this year.

In the cemetery, women whose faces are deeply lined, creases like arroyos and canyons, wrap themselves in wool, polyester, once fine now frayed and discolored robozos.  There is a chill in the air and a fine drizzle begins to fall accompanying the waning light of dusk.  Geraniums planted years ago are now robust, growing over the mounds of dead loved ones, enveloping them like a warm blanket.  Over there a family huddles beside the new concrete wall warming themselves by a small campfire.  The cemetery is expanding, new earth ready to receive both its humble and prosperous.  Death is the great equalizer, they say.

The gringos pass each other with meek smiles or nods, a silent signal to each other.  Of what?  Recognition as the “other”, in communion, in competition for ownership rights, the privilege of being the most connected or the one with the longest history here?  They forget that gringos are visitors and Zapotecs are the rightful heirs of this village.  This valley.  The abuelos nod as we pass in recognition and greeting.  Humanity is spoken through the eyes of women who speak only a few words of Spanish, if that, and in a silent instant tell the beauty and pain of their heritage.  The cemetery reminds us of a temporal life, of hope for a better future, of the value of relationship and the meaninglessness of acquisition.

As dusk descends and rain falls in droplets, the assemblage endures, covers themselves with plastic or an umbrella while the gringos with the expensive cameras pack up and leave.

Only the hummmm of the refrigerator sings to me now as I sit at the top of the hill overlooking the valley below, church spires rising to god’s infinity.  The refrigerator, an opening for abundance.

What surprised me was the abundance of flowers, the reverence for the dead, the celebratory acts of remembrance, the stylization of the calaveras (skeletons) — skulls, bones, skeletons in bread, candy, altar figures, candles, candles everywhere, tall, short, votives.  The mythical combined with the religious.  The blending of Catholic and indigenous practice, laughter and song, mucho mezcal, purple corn tamales, the sitting and visiting, how traditional Zapotec ceremonial practice takes priority over business and work.  Time is for giving to others.  Earl Shorris says that whomever controls time controls their destiny and the way of the world.

There is a rhythm and pace to Dia de los Muertos that goes beyond the parties, food and drink.  It is the giving of bread, chocolate, fruit and candles from the heart, tribute paid and received, an ancient tradition.  You bring six loaves of Pan Muertos.  I give you three to eat.  You bring chocolate, I give you hot chocolate to drink.  Then, I give you a package of other bread, fruit and chocolate to take home with you, symbol of lasting respect and friendship.  The ceremony is in the giving, the receiving, the memory, the tribute to the dead, the time honored traditions.  All this takes time.

Categories: Cultural Commentary · Oaxaca travel · Teotitlan del Valle
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Day of the Dead: Dia de los Muertos

Friday, August 7, 2009 · 1 Comment

Day of the Dead, a celebration and festival of relatives who have passed on, is sacred and joyous in Oaxaca as in other parts of Mexico.  I am returning to Oaxaca for “Muertos” as the locals call it, arriving on October 28.

Muertos Countdown

October 31

Our family friend, Janet Chavez Santiago, tells us that we don’t want to miss being with them in the village of Teotitlan del Valle on October 31.  This is when the Zapotec villagers to to the local market to buy the fruits and special bread for the altar that is part of each family’s home.  Her brother Eric tells me that this market day in Teotitlan del Valle is one of the largest and most abundant of the year.

November 1

Mexicans believe that the souls of all their dead relatives will arrive in the altar room of their houses at 3:00 p.m.  So, the family gathers there, each tamales together, light candles and welcome the spiritual return of their loved ones.  At 5:00 p.m. after the special comida, the practice is to visit the houses of their relatives to pay respects to the souls of the extended family members who have passed.  Janet says that many family visitors come to their house, too, bringing gifts for the altar that include some of the favorite foods of the dead.

November 2

Everyone stays home to rest, to visit more, and to be with the spirits of the ded relatives.  At 3:00 p.m. the souls return to the cemetery and there is a family procession to the graveyards to be with the souls as they re-enter the graves.

Categories: Teotitlan del Valle
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Carolina Nursing Student Volunteers in Centro de Salud

Friday, July 24, 2009 · 2 Comments

During her externship at the public health clinic at Teotitlan del Valle, Carolina nursing student Lindsey Bach developed a diabetes health education and promotion program to teach local people about eating healthy and exercise.  She made a delicious dish of lentils, black beans, tomatoes, onions, mango and papaya, seasoned with peppers, a bit of salt, and cilantro.  Yummm, healthy and delicious.

Categories: Food & Recipes · Oaxaca travel · Teotitlan del Valle · Travel & Tourism
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El Dio del Maize: Corn God of Mexico–Rug Weaving

Sunday, July 19, 2009 · 1 Comment

This afternoon Federico Chavez Sosa completed this extraordinary handwoven 100% wool rug created with natural dyes and cut it from his loom.  It is a complex design that requires special skill to execute the curves and circles to perfection.  The piece measures 32″ x 57″ and is $500 USD. Dyes are from the cochineal bug, pomegranates, wild marigold and the natural color of sheep wool. Federico is a master weaver from the Zapotec village of Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca.   Since I am in Teotitlan now, I would be glad to bring it back for you and ship it from North Carolina after August 1.  We can arrange payment with PayPal.

Categories: Oaxaca Mexico art and culture · Oaxaca rug weaving and natural dyes · Teotitlan del Valle · Textiles, Tapestries & Weaving
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‘Weaving a Curve’ Movie Just Accepted to 100 Mile Film Series–Short Shorts

Tuesday, July 7, 2009 · Leave a Comment

ChathamArts in Pittsboro, North Carolina, holds a series of documentary film screenings that are produced and directed by people who live within 100 miles of the “epicenter” — Big Culture in a Tiny Town!  That would be:  Pittsboro.  I submitted our short film (just under 6 minutes) to the Short Shorts screening and we were accepted!  The series coordinator is Linda Booker, a distinguished NC documentary filmmaker.

The screening is Tuesday, July 28, 2009, 7:30 p.m. at the Fearrington Barn, Fearrington Village, Pittsboro, NC.  You can find out more on the ChathamArts website www.chathamarts.org This will be the first time the film will be shown on the big screen.

The film tells the story of Federico Chavez Sosa, master weaver of Teotitlan del Valle, how he learned to weave and perfect making the curve using the two-pedal, two harness tapestry loom introduced by the Spaniards in 1521.  Federico talks about what it means to him to be a weaver, combining the aesthetic and spiritual, the past and the present.  In Spanish with English subtitles.

I wrote, produced and directed the film with my friend Eric Chavez Santiago who shares billing with me.  Eric is the director of education at the textile museum in Oaxaca, and took the documentary filmmaking workshop with me in his village of Teotitlan del Valle last February.  We both thought it would be a useful skill to know, and this has proven correct.  Eric has gone on to make short documentaries of aging weavers, dyers, and spinners in remote villages of Oaxaca.  I am now making a documentary at the UNC Chapel Hill School of Nursing about an innovative nursing research project that is looking into hunger and fullness feeding cues that infants and toddlers give to their parents and caregivers.  If the cues are not recognized or are ignored, it is believed that this can result in early childhood obesity which could then lead to childhood type 2 diabetes.

Erica Rothman, our workshop instructor, repeatedly said that the goal of our documentary filmmaking workshop was to provide the skills to enable people to go back to their own communities and tell their unique stories through film.  For me and Eric, I think we achieved this goal.

The next Oaxaca Filmmaking Workshop: Visual Storytelling is scheduled for February 19-26, 2010.  If you are interested in attending, see the blog post for all the details or write me at normahawthorne@mac.com

Categories: Cultural Commentary · Teotitlan del Valle · Workshops
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Las Granadas Bed & Breakfast: An Interview with Josefina Ruiz

Thursday, June 11, 2009 · 1 Comment

Scenes of Las Granadas Bed & Breakfast, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca

In 2005, our friend Annie Burns invited Stephen and I to visit her in Teotitlan del Valle, where she was now living permanently.  She told us about a young mother and mother-in-law who were at a loss to figure out how to provide income for themselves and their three children/grandchildren after their husbands had died earlier that year.  That is how we came to know Josefina Ruiz and her mother-in-law Magda. Josefina’s husband and Magda’s son was a famous weaver (Eligio Bazan) who died suddenly of a rare form of cancer at age 38.  Annie said she was encouraging them to start a guesthouse and asked if we would be the first guests as an experiment to get the venture launched.  Of course, we said yes, and that is how Las Granadas Bed & Breakfast was born.

Now, four years later, the house at 2 de Abril is transformed into a garden paradise in large part through the effort of the two women and the help of Roberta Christie, a Florida State University administrator, who took early retirement and helped renovate the compound.  Lush bougainvilla, clean, basic rooms, and fruit-bearing pomegranate trees surround the outdoor kitchen where Magda now prepares her famous hot chocolate made from cacao beans she roasts herself.  During the early morning hours before breakfast, you can see Magda at the comal (outdoor wood fired clay griddle) preparing the fresh maize tortillas that she mixed earlier, turning them with her fingers.

Now, participants who enroll in the workshops and small group tours offered through Oaxaca Cultural Navigator: weaving, natural dyeing, oil painting, documentary filmmaking, enjoy a stay at Las Granadas as part of the package cost.

I asked Roberta to talk with Josefina about her life as an innkeeper.  Here is her response.

R:  What things do you enjoy most about operating a B&B in Teotitlan?

J:  I like everything about it.  I enjoy working in my own home and making sure that our guests enjoy their stay with us.  It is very interesting for me and my family to get to know people from other countries.

I especially enjoy cooking for our guests and am proud when they finish every bit of food on their plates.   They seem to especially enjoy the fresh fruit and fresh juice I serve at breakfast, and many say they have never tasted such good eggs — all from local chickens. Everyone enjoys the quesadillas straight from the comal.   I’m also pleased to serve vegetarians the things they want to eat.   Luckily I can get fresh vegetables every day at our market.

R:  How has Las Granadas made a difference in your life?

J:  With the income, our life has improved a lot.  I sleep better (laughs) because I feel confident that I will be able to support my family.

We’ve also been able to sell some tapetes (rugs) and bolsas (shoulder bags), and Magdalena has sold chocolate. This is also good for us and is very satisfying when people tell us how beautiful the rugs are and how delicious the chocolate is.

R:  What are your plans for the future?

J:  We are making improvements to the house and second level using some of the income from room rental.  I want to eventually put tile on the kitchen and patio-level rooms.  Poco a poco, Las Granadas will become even better and we hope even more people will come and enjoy their stay with us.

Categories: Teotitlan del Valle · Teotitlan women · Travel & Tourism
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What I Miss, by Annie Burns*

Monday, June 8, 2009 · Leave a Comment

Most of all, I miss the Zapotecs
and how they live close to the earth:

my neighbor’s house with its dirt floor,
the older women in the village who don’t wear shoes,
the road by my house that is dirt and stone,
and every morning sweeping the dirt out of my porch-kitchen. . .
with a hand-made straw broom.

I miss the animals,
the burros, the toros, the turkeys, the goats and the street dogs
who all live practical and busy lives.

I miss the tortillas
fresh off the fire
with salsa and goat cheese.

I miss the children in my English class
who are perfectly serious about our yoga practice
and who so mysteriously cannot sing on pitch

I miss singing out from the mountain side
and playing my penny whistle in the paltry shade of a bush

I miss gossiping in Spanish.

I miss my handy man
who loves to work
and can accomplish anything.

I miss looking out over the valley at sundown
seeing the pink reflection of the village houses
and the white, wedding cake church.

I miss the faces of the villagers
the sound of Zapotec, band music, fiesta and fireworks.

I miss looking far into the distance
at the ring of mountains that encircle our valley
and the night lights of the neighboring villages.

I miss my house
and the plants that struggle to survive
in the arid and ant infiltrated earth.

I miss my pets
who don’t miss me
because they are in love with my house-sitter.

Next time, let me tell you what I don’t miss!!!!

Annie y perro Ani

Annie y perro Ani

*Annie Burns lives in the Zapotec village of Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, in a single story brick home built on a hillside overlooking the town.  She is surrounded by the natural world and wonderful Zapotec neighbors and friends.  This year, she is traveling for eight months, first to Ireland and then to South Carolina, before going back to Oaxaca.  I asked her what she missed about this village and this was her reply.

Categories: Oaxaca Mexico art and culture · Teotitlan del Valle · Teotitlan women

Weaving a Curve-Documentary Film: English Subtitles

Monday, May 25, 2009 · 2 Comments

I’m happy to announce that we now have the film that Eric and I made last February translated and imbedded with English subtitles.  Hallelujah!  Here’s the URL http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxgxcMQlQZM

Be sure to see the blog post:  Documentary Filmmaking Workshop: Visual Storytelling for the February 19-16, 2010 workshop. Taking registrations now.

I’m so NOVICE using Final Cut Pro and even with help from the Apple Store, I just couldn’t figure out how to make that pesky little app in the software work for me.  So, I called Erica Rothman, the instructor for our documentary filmmaking workshop, and she came to the rescue today.  Three hours later and now I can say we finally have a completed movie!  I gave Erica one of my Made By Hand Norma Hawthorne necklaces and a 1/2 pint of my homemade goat cheese in gratitude.  So, please enjoy and I’d love to hear your feedback.  Please note the the translation is not “word for word” but contextual!

Our next documentary filmmaking workshop in Teotitlan will start the last week in February 2010.  We have some exciting new ideas to incorporate, and this upcoming workshop will be two days longer so we will have more time to shoot B-roll, edit (and, yes, complete the subtitles, if needed), and have a bit more down time!

Categories: Oaxaca rug weaving and natural dyes · Oaxaca travel · Teotitlan del Valle
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Rug Gallery — Hand Woven in Teotitlan del Valle

Sunday, May 17, 2009 · 2 Comments

These beautiful 100% wool, handwoven and naturally dyed rugs are for sale.  Most are woven by master weaver Federico Chavez Sosa and are 4 x 6 feet, and are $700 to $1,100.  I am happy to quote you specific prices if you are interested!

Categories: Oaxaca Mexico art and culture · Oaxaca rug weaving and natural dyes · Teotitlan del Valle
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NC Moss Dye Bath & Silk Cocoons

Tuesday, March 10, 2009 · 1 Comment

During one of the visits to Teotitlan last summer, I went to the studio of Arte y Seda.  This family home and workshop employs a horizontal production process:  they grow the worms, feeding them mulberry leaves from the trees in their courtyard, cultivate the worms through the reproduction stage where they become pupae encased in the silk cocoon.   The cocoons are then soaked so that human hands can unravel the silk that is then dyed, spun and woven.  It is said that 914 yards of silk forms one cocoon. It is a multi-step, multi-month process.

I bought 7 pure white cocoons and brought them home with me, waiting for a jewelry project.  When I shake these, I can hear the remnants of a creature that has dried and is trapped inside.

http://insected.arizona.edu/silkinfo.htm

For the past few months I have been gathering moss from downed limbs in the forest around my house.  The moss is pale olive green.  It’s not really long, dripping Spanish moss, but short little hairs that grow on maple trees.

I’ve now collected about 1 cup, and intend to run a dye experiment, coloring the silk cocoons.  Eric Chavez Santiago, director of education, Museo Textil de Oaxaca, responded to my plea for a recipe:  put the moss in 90 degree centigrade hot water, let it sit for an hour.  Cool the liquid keeping the moss in the liquid.  Add the silk cocoons and keep the termperature at 70-80 C for one more hour.  Let the cocoon mixture cool in the dye bath overnight.  It’s important to figure out a way to keep the cocoons, which tend to float, submerged so they evenly absorb the dye color.  Also, don’t stir the cocoons or they could unravel or get mushy.

“It will be very interesting to see if the moss will dye the cocoons,” said Eric.   It works with cochineal and indigo.

I haven’t run the experiment yet so I’ll keep you posted.

My intention is to string the colored cocoons together with a woven yarn or thread, perhaps a crocheted thread, and perhaps embellish the necklace with clay or glass beads.  I may wrap the cocoons in an alternate commercially dyed and purchased silk to give texture and play off the natural and synthetic nature of the material.  Silkworms are only now cultivated in captivity.  None exist any longer in the wild.

Experiment #1:  I did as instructed above using 1 cup of moss to two cups of water, and the color of the cocoons were a pale shade of ochre, so I returned them to the dye bath for another 24-hour soaking for a total of 48 hours in the dye bath.  They maintained their shape beautifully and colored a deeper ochre, yet still not to my satisfaction after they air dried for 24 hours.  I really want a deep, deep golden color.

Experiment #2: I have picked 1 cup of moss and added this to 1 cup of water in hopes of getting a more intense dye bath.  I can see that the color of the water after the moss is cooked to 190 degrees will be more of the color I am seeking.  I will let the moss/water mix simmer at a constant 190 degrees for one hour, then cool the mix to 170 degrees, and add the cocoons for a second go-around.

How to keep the cocoons from floating:  put the cocoons under the moss covering them completely with moss.  Then, put a layer of aluminum foil over the moss, then weight this with a small ceramic plate so the cocoons don’t bob up and out from under the moss.

Categories: Oaxaca Mexico art and culture · Oaxaca rug weaving and natural dyes · Teotitlan del Valle
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