Oaxaca Cultural Navigator

On the last day of the workshop, Karen worked with Federico and Janet to complete her tapestry, a glorious rainbow of red, warm yellow and orange, cream and blue. She cut the piece she will use for a wall hanging off the loom, and learned how to finish off the rug in the traditional Zapotec technique of rolling the warp threads into fringes and then tying them off.

As an instructor with her father, Janet Chavez Santiago had this to add about the four-day experience: It was a great experience for me to do the workshop with Karen. It was very satisfying to see how she learned and how she was able to create a beautiful finished product — her rug! The dyeing day was perfect. Karen said she appreciated the process of our work and how we take the time to dye the wool by hand using natural materials. I was very happy that I could teach her the mordanting process, and dyeing with acid, alkaline and a neutral base. The indigo was a challenge because it is a difficult process, but we did it and without mistakes and she was able to see the different blues and how the color changes when it comes in contact with the air. I am very excited about the next workshop we have scheduled to start on August 11. It’s full with five people and it’s going to be wonderful, too.

We are now accepting reservations for workshops starting November 22 and December 13. See the website or blog post: Oaxaca Weaving Workshop: Dancing on the Loom, for more details.

We walked up to the Presa (reservoir) that day, it was a Friday, very early before it got too hot, and on the way back stopped by to say hello to Ester, Russio and their three girls–Jazmin, Ester and Rocio–who live in the house with the golden bull and the cackling guacalotes just in front of our friend Annie on the hillside at the outskirts of town. What was once a donkey path in front of their modest adobe casita has become a graded thoroughfare, enabling small cars and trucks to come into town from the remote mountain villages. The walking is easier now, not as many granite outcroppings to traverse as we pass through cactus meadows with grazing sheep, cattle and horses. Development is extending its reach even in Teotitlan.

Please come to the escuela this afternoon at 3 p.m., Ester and Russio invited us. Today is the elementary school graduation; daughters Ester and Rocio will be participating in the fiesta. Come, they said, even if you’re late. After noodling around the village, stopping for coffee at The Sacred Bean Cafe, and visiting with Josefina and Magda at Las Granadas Bed and Breakfast, I went to the elementary school, drawn by the music coming from the plaza. It was after 4 p.m. and things were just getting going.

This is the second graduation ceremony I attended during this visit. As I watched this group of first through sixth graders at the elementary school, I was struck by how children are taught at an early age to dance, sing, play, laugh, honor their cultural traditions through dance, revere their history, and demonstrate appreciation for the customs that define their identity as Zapotecs and as Mexicans. What I noticed was how the ceremony of something even as simple as an elementary school graduation takes on epic proportions. Here is the village’s very own Guelaguetza. It appeared to me that the entire village turned out in support. People dressed up in their finest frocks and fanciest shoes,

there were reserved seats of honor for parents and close relatives of the graduates. Everyone participated to collectively bless the future of all these young people with their presence, whether they were graduating or not. The village as extended family promoted a feeling of well-being, joy and comfort. The area was bedecked with balloons and flowers. Drinks were handed out gratis to family members of the graduates. Along the periphery and outside the school, vendors sold refrescas (soft drinks), helados and nieves (ice cream and sorbet), and postres y dulces (pastries and sweets). Students giggled, laughed, were nervous about whether they would do well, played tag, hung on their mother’s

skirts, stood soldierly while posing for photos, took their roles seriously, fell down and got up again, shouldered the burden of heavy baskets balanced on small heads, smiled in satisfaction of having done well at the end. All will go on to middle school, some of those will go on to high school, and then very few will continue on to university. Most will become weavers or laborers, others will work in Oaxaca or travel with coyotes to work in the U.S. Celebrations of village life cycle events are a constant, mixed with joy, tragedy and continuity.

Here’s what you can do with all those cucumbers (pepinos) in your garden! A thirst quenching liquid refreshment sure to delight all is Agua Fresca de Pepino con Limon. We had this last week in Oaxaca (at Los Descansos restaurant in Teotitlan) and it was delicious. Here is the recipe — really easy.

In your blender, add:

1/4 cup sugar and 1/2 cup hot tap water, blend to dissolve sugar (use sugar to taste)

1 medium English cucumber, washed, ends cut off (do not peel)

juice of 2 large limes or 4 small limes

1 cup water

12-16 ice cubes

Cut cucumber into 2″ cubes and add to blender along with lime juice and water. Blend until smooth. Add ice cubes, as many as needed to make the drink really “chilly.” Blend until drink is consistency of a smoothie.

Pour into a wine glass and serve immediately. Makes 4 6-ounce servings.

If you want to add some pizzaz, add one ounce of clear tequila for a refreshing twist on Margaritaville.

The second day of the workshop started at 9 a.m. on Tuesday with Karen and her Chavez Santiago Family hosts and teachers gathered around the worktable in the covered and paved courtyard for an orientation to the natural dyeing process. On hand were baking soda, alum, fresh squeezed lime juice and skeins of undyed wool shorn and spun from Churro sheep. Janet Chavez Santiago explained about and showed the different materials used for the dyeing process: cochineal bugs, indigo, moss, lichens, and pericone. The propane-powered burners were topped with stainless steel and enamel pots filled with water coming to a boil.

Dolores Santiago Arellanas and her 14 year old son, Omar Chavez Santiago were standing by, ready to mix the dyes after selecting the acid (lime juice) or neutral (baking soda) to mix with the dye stuffs to determine the shade and intensity of the color. Federico and Janet guided Karen after they demonstrated how to measure and add the dye liquid to create the dye bath. Wearing a mandil (traditional Zapotec apron) and protective rubber gloves, Karen stirred and poured, while the family and her son, Sebastian, looked on. It was clear that everyone was having a great time. Since it takes an hour of “cooking” the wool in the dye bath to achieve the desired color, Karen went back to her weaving and accomplished quite a bit during the day. She is well on her way to finishing a beautiful wall hanging by the end of the four-day workshop.

Here’s what Karen says about her experience:

“I wanted to be realistic about my expectations, I looked online and thoroughly re-read Norma’s blog. I had my information packet from her and had a basic idea that I would be coming to work with this multi-generational family of weavers. I was impressed by the quality and diversity of the family’s weavings. I had seen the looms before and was familiar with what things looked like. I am really pleased about how patient and agreeable the family is because I don’t have hands-on weaving experience. I appreciated that they offered me the choice of wool from an extensive selection of colors from which to create my piece.

“It was wonderful for me to have this experience at the loom – it was a dream. It really was dancing on the loom. There were certain techniques I couldn’t get right away at the beginning and Federico, Dolores and Janet were patient about repeating the instructions. They wanted me to relax and enjoy what I was doing. They looked at my work and gave me a lot of encouragement. This is a wonderful spontaneous atmosphere in which to learn. It is very exciting to look at and be with the natural colors. I came open-minded and didn’t have too many preconceived notions about what I would do. Federico and Janet talked about weaving with your heart – choosing the colors and their flow in a way that speaks to you — and that was a great approach. At another time, I would like to make more of a design.

“It is also lovely here, beautiful, the food is really gorgeous and delicious. For people who have no experience with Mexico, I believe this would exceed their expectations. It is very clean. Sometimes people might be fearful of coming to a village but once here they would see that it is not that rustic. They are not going to get sick because a lot of care is given to making well-prepared food. Anyone could feel very confident about what they would eat or drink at this house.”

Karen’ son, Sebastian, added his comments:

“I had no idea what would happen, then once I got here, I saw everyone who was here was really nice, and very cool. I like being here with my mom because I got to learn a lot about weaving and dyeing, and watching how the looms work. It was fun taking photos, too. I’d like to be able to do this myself and make something. Omar, who is my age, is really nice and it was a lot of fun to get to meet him. We both rode in the back of the pick-up truck to go get corn grown at Omar’s grandmother’s house for the soup, and we spun the yarn together to make the bobbins that my mom is using for her weaving. My dad, Fernando Olivera, is an artist and he is teaching me how to do woodcuts and etchings. I like everything about Oaxaca – the people, food, culture and art. Everyone here is very friendly. I like it a lot.”

Accepting Registrations Now: Mid-December 2008,

Oaxaca Weaving Workshop: Dancing on the Loom

Karen Karuza arrived this morning to begin a four-day weaving and natural dyeing workshop with the Chavez Santiago Family, Francisco I. Madero #55, Teotitlan del Valle at their studio and gallery. Karen is an artist and has been teaching textile design at the Art Institute of Philadelphia for 20 years. Her son, Sebastian, age 14, who was born in Oaxaca, accompanied her. It was perfect because he could hang out with Omar Chavez Santiago, also age 14. Karen is not an experienced weaver, but took to the process instantly with expert guidance from master weaver Federico Chavez Sosa.

Federico and his daughter Janet Chavez Santiago first explained to Karen how the Zapotec loom is used and how it was warped. Then, they all went into the rug gallery where Federico and Janet pulled out many rugs woven with natural colors so Karen could see the choices of color combinations and patterns that she might use in the piece she planned to weave. Here, she could see the finished pieces woven by Federico, his wife Dolores, Janet, and sons Eric (age 24) and Omar.

Next, Federico and Janet took Karen upstairs to the area where the dyed wool is stored. Here, she could choose the colors she preferred. Then, they went back downstairs to the weaving workshop area where Federico showed Karen how to wind bobbins using the spinning wheel.

With Karen at the loom next to him, Federico then demonstrated the tapestry weaving techniques of Teotitlan del Valle, how to put the shuttle through the loom, use the foot pedals, and manipulate the yarn to achieve an even border. The two fourteen year olds, Omar and Sebastian, worked together to spin the wool onto bobbins that would be put into the shuttle.

As the family gathers around the loom, Federico teaches and coaches, Janet translates as necessary, and both father-daughter team encourage Karen as she begins the rhythm of weaving. Janet says, “When you have the idea how the loom works, it is easier to do it. It just takes practice.” Karen is learning quickly and after only a few hours, has created the beginning of a beautiful tapestry that she intends to use as a wall hanging when she returns home.

“This is really exciting,” she said. “I’m here because I want to be able to talk about traditional weaving techniques with my students and other textile faculty members. It’s professional development that will be very helpful in my work.”

After the 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. period of instruction is over, Karen, along with her son, gathered around the family table for comida — the mid-day meal — that included homemade sopa de elote con flor de calabassas and tasajo con queso, salsa y tortillas prepared by Dolores Chavez Arrellenas who is an extraordinary cook. Now, to get ready for tomorrow’s lesson, Omar is squeezing 100 limes by hand. The juice will be used to prepare the cochineal for the dyeing portion of the workshop.

Note: The workshops are held in the taller — home and studio — of Federico Chavez Sosa and his wife Dolores Santiago Arrellanos, in the village of Teotitlan del Valle, about 17 miles outside Oaxaca city. The gallery and studio is open daily, however, it is always wise to call ahead to make certain that someone is home! The phone number is (951) 52 44078. Add 011 52 if calling from the U.S.

Coming Wednesday, July 9, 2008, Teotitlan del Valle

Nine young Zapotec men in their 20’s and 30’s bedecked in bold primary colors – red, green, yellow, black — and crowned with feathered headdresses the size of a large moon, leap and twirl into the air, shake rattles and raise a carved and painted wooden talisman to the sky. They are reenacting the Spanish conquest through dance as an annual ritual of remembrance. The accompanying band, a crew of both veteran and youthful musicians, play flutes, cymbals, drums, trumpets, tubas, clarinets, saxophones, in an oompah-pah cadence reminiscent of a Sousa march with hints of German polka. They chant and speak a conversation between Moctezuma and Cortes, in which Cortes says there will be a special god that will come in the appearance of Cortes and conquer the Aztecs. The entourage includes Malinche, the Aztec princess who learned Spanish, became courtesan to Cortes, and betrayed her people according to lore. Two masked clowns, the buffoons, parade between the dancers and along the sidelines, make mocking gestures. Village children represent the Spanish soldiers in a parade that takes place before the dance begins.

This oral and performance history is centuries old, transmitted generation to generation as homage to indigenous survival. While the Spaniards decimated the native Mesoamerican population by as much as 95 percent as a result of disease (smallpox, influenza, etc.) and superior weaponry, the rich cultural traditions have nevertheless survived. The Dance of the Feather existed before the Spanish conquest, according to Uriel Santiago, one of the dancers I talked with. Originally it was an Aztec ritual dance to communicate with their gods for rain, sun and corn. The Aztecs dominated much of Mesoamerica, including the Mixtecs and Zapotecs of the Oaxaca region. When the Spanish conquered the Aztecs, they had not seen the dance in Tenochtitlan, the Aztec capital. Bishop Manuel Gricida Martinez first saw the dance in the Mixtec village of Cuilapam. He thought it was a great way to modify tradition and incorporate the new Catholic religion – so most of the music and songs used in the dance are now Spanish and French. The Spaniards also introduced long pants and the big feathered crown that we see today. The dialogs were designed by the Spaniards to prove the power of the empire. In Teotitlan, Uriel tells me there are three different codices with three different dialogs, and there is a controversy about which one is the accurate version.

At least 10 villages in the Oaxaca Valley have their own version of the Danza de la Pluma that is held during the week honoring the particular village’s patron saint. Each village uses similar dance patterns, however Teotitlan del Valle costumes are much more elaborate. In Teotitlan del Valle, the Danza de la Pluma is scheduled to start this year on July 9 (this is one week later than usual). Practice for the actual three-day dance-a-thon is grueling. There are at least 15 different complex dance sequences that are performed continuously in the church plaza for 10-hours. The dancers, who volunteer as part of their practice to give back to their community, make a three-year commitment, and each group has a teacher who designs the choreography and dialogs. The teacher has told the dancers that they can adapt the dialogs, so it is difficult for Uriel to know the true history and he believes it is likely that the original dance is lost. What does remain intact, he says, is the dancers’ commitment to the village Church of the Precious Blood and its saints. He loves the emotion of dancing, the interdependency of his dance partners, and the link of the dance to his faith.

This week I attended the all-day practice held in the front yard of the Moctezuma, Manuel Bazan, in preparation for the July 9 event. The wives, mothers, and sisters of the dancers and musicians had already gathered early in the morning to begin the meal preparations for afternoon comida, to which we were invited. At 3 p.m. the music and dancing stopped, the men took their seats at table and raised a traditional toast. The fiesta tradition is to toast first with two shots of mezcal followed by two Corona Victoria’s. The women, who included a physician, the director of the kindergarten, teachers, vendors and merchants, served traditional chicken soup flavored with Yerba Santa (a delicious herb), followed by a platter of roasted chicken, vegetable mix of fresh corn, nopalitos (cactus), and carrots, spicy black bean refritos, and plenty of fresh corn tortillas hot off the comal (tortilla griddle) made with locally ground maize that was discovered and cultivated here more than 6,000 years ago.

Sitting across the table from me was Jorge Hernandez Diaz, PhD, professor of sociology at Benito Juarez University, the Oaxaca state university. A graduate of the University of Connecticut, he has written numerous books about indigenous culture and documented the Dance of the Feather as performed in various villages throughout the Oaxaca Valley. The Guelaguetza, the state organized dance extravaganza for which Oaxaca is famous, features La Danza de la Pluma for 10 minutes during the weeklong event. This hardly does justice to this centuries-old tradition, he told me.

We talked about how necessary tourism is for Oaxaca in order to preserve these historic cultural traditions, how weavers and carvers and potters depend upon tourism in order to continue their art and craft, and how concerned he is for the future of this culture because tourism, which fuels the economy, has been dropping off since 2004. Professor Hernandez Diaz talked in particular about San Martin Tilcajete as an example of what is happening. Here many very talented carvers have left the village and their art behind to work in bigger Mexican cities or to go to El Norte. Only the most famous and commercially successful have been able to make a reasonable living. The professor is calling San Martin a ghost town.

For me, cultural preservation is by definition a delicate balance. I believe we have a responsibility to be respectful and tread lightly as we explore indigenous cultures – whether they are here in the Oaxaca Valley or other parts of the world — in order to sustain and promote traditional lifestyles and art forms that are in danger of being lost. One important way of doing this is to promote and support people to continue to create by valuing their time and the quality of the their work. This will help them stay in their villages with their families, rather than going off to a distant land to earn a living –something that most don’t want to do.

So, for example, when I talk in my blog http://oaxacaculture.wordpress.com and website www.oaxacaculture.com about preserving Zapotec natural dyeing techniques and formulas, this about being willing to compensate weavers and paying a higher price for a textile that is woven with cochineal, indigo, moss, or pecan shells because the process takes so much longer to complete – and being enough of a knowledgeable collector/consumer to know the difference between a piece made with synthetic (and toxic) dyes and those made from natural plant and animal materials.

My blog captures search engine terms. Many people are inquiring about safety in Oaxaca since the APPO and teacher demonstrations of 2006. We travel to Oaxaca several times a year and are building a casita here. The city and surrounding environs are safe, secure and inviting. The people are warm, open and generous. Please don’t hesitate to visit!

An eighth grade education is mandatory in Mexico, and today we celebrated Omar Chavez Santiago’s graduation marking this milestone in typical Zapotec pomp and circumstance. There were 73 students who completed the Escuela Secondaria de Teotitlan del Valle in a three hour ceremony that was more like a mini-Guelaguetza. About half of the graduates will continue on to attend high school in Oaxaca City. The rest will farm or weave or apprentice a trade. Omar who is age 14, will have a one month break and then hop the bus every day starting August 11 for the 40 minute trip to a private high school where he will begin a college preparatory education. His favorite subject is mathematics. Omar weaves beautiful rugs, too.

We went as madrina and padrina (godmother and godfather), designated by Federico Chavez Sosa and his wife Dolores to represent the family and stand with Omar as he received his diploma. We took lots of photos because Federico and daughter Janet had left yesterday on an overnight bus to Mexico City where they had a visa appointment at the U.S. Embassy this morning, so they could not attend. (Buenas noticias: they both got 10 year visas for the trip they are planning to the U.S. this fall.) We wanted to be sure they got the full flavor.

This morning Stephen took the wheel of the ancient dark blue Toyota pick-up and Dolores took the seat beside him. I climbed into the flatbed and Tia Ernestina climbed over the bumper to join me. She handed me a huge bouquet of flowers and a gift bag that Stephen and I would later present to Omar. We rode the six blocks to the lime-green painted school to get there just in time for the 9 a.m. start. As we entered the courtyard, I saw students clustered in small giggling groups, the band was pinning on their epaulets and blowing trumpet blasts and banging drum rolls, and the soon-to-be graduates clutched strings tied to big red and white striped tinsel balloons. The girls were dressed in light blue, pink and maroon uniforms depending on their school year. The boys wore short-sleeve white shirts, khaki pants, and matching khaki sweaters. It was buzzing and humming with excitement and energy.

There weren’t many people there and it was 9:10 a.m. For the next 50 minutes, families streamed in under the huge red and blue striped tent adorned with purple and white balloons. Mothers, fathers, grandparents, aunts, uncles, brothers, sisters and cousins carried floral bouquets and arrangements, some so large they hid the carrier. Each took their seats on cement bleachers. Dolores looked at me and Stephen, we all looked at each other and realized that the ceremony was called for Teotitlan time, which is one hour later than Oaxaca time (which is what most of us go by) — a source of constant confusion in the village. Patience is the most valuable attribute one can have in Mexico.

By 10:15 a.m. it was standing room only. The school administrators and a long line of village and state education and committee officials took their seats at the head table, and the ceremony began with the singing of the Mexican national anthem. An honor guard of young women dressed in serious navy blue and chosen for their academic achievements, unfurled the red, white and green Mexican flag. There is a strong sense of nationalism and reverence for independence in Mexico. Every village and city has a Calle 20 de Noviembre, Calle Independencia, and Calle Benito Juarez. In this indigenous village, all the students recited the national anthem, yet only about half the audience participated. I don’t know whether this is because they didn’t learn it because they didn’t attend school or their Zapotec allegiances are stronger than national pride.

After the anthem, Omar came to get us and we took seats two rows behind him and his classmates on the other side of the tent opposite from the bleachers, joining the others who would participate in the graduation ceremony.

The middle school is noted for it’s folkloric dancing program, and interspersed between the awarding of the certificates of meritorious achievements, the homilies to the value of education given by various directors, teachers, and civic leaders, we were entertained by costumed students who presented the dance traditions of various regions of Mexico. It was fabulous! Our own private Guelaguetza. Then, at about 12:15 p.m., came the awarding of the diplomas. Omar Chavez Santiago was in the second group of students to receive their diplomas, and Stephen and I had to pay attention to the protocol. We watched the first group to receive their diplomas very carefully. Then, Omar’s teacher announced his name and said he was being received by Norma Hawthorne and Stephen Hawthorne.

Omar walked to the table of dignitaries to receive his diploma and shake each of their hands, as we walked to the center of the tent, me carrying the bouquet of red roses and lilies and Stephen carrying the gift. We stood to receive him and gave him a huge hug and kiss of congratulations. Omar’s uncle Raoul came up to take photos, and then we went back to our seats. When all had received their diplomas they gathered in a group and released their balloons to the sky. With that the ceremony ended, and in great graduation fashion all over the world, there was a huge mingling and hugging, and kissing, and camera flashes. As we exited the school yard, the tuk-tuk moto taxis clustered, and at least five nieveria (ice cream carts) attendants were dishing out cones and cups to proud graduates and family members. We headed off to El Descanso for lunch.

Just 10 minutes outside the city of Oaxaca lies Monte Alban, the mountain-top pre-Columbian city of the Zapotecs. The road to get there is a switchback and as one makes the climb into the clouds, it is easy to see why this site was chosen.

It offered a superior 360 degree vantage point from which to scope the entire Oaxaca valley. Much has been written about Monte Alban (white mountain), named by the Spanish for the white flowering trees that cover the area each spring. The Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago cites the Zapotec civilization as being one of the most important in Mesoamerica., Zapotecs developed a political, social, and cultural organization that was very advanced, building a communitarian way of life of mutual support and decision making through a tribunal leadership structure. Today the vestiges of this system continue as committees of leaders govern Zapotec village life, where everyone meets, discusses, then votes on important issues. It is a way of life based upon cooperation, not competition. It is notable that Zapotecs developed the concept of zero which is represented by the “eye” symbol. The eye for them connoted infinity and from that vantage point at the top of Monte Alban and the ability to see earth and sky as seamless, it is easy to understand how they

could arrive at this conclusion. In Europe, through the Middle Ages, if you were a mathematician thinking about the meaning of Zero you would be burned at the stake as a heretic. At Monte Alban you will see the Observatory from which Zapotecs created a calendar based upon lunar and solar calculations. Jared Diamond, author of “Guns, Germs, and Steel,” comments that the Zapotecs had a more perfect calendar system that did not require a leap year.

The structures at Monte Alban are as impressive to me as those built by the Mayans at Chichen Itza. There is an observatory, temple, ball court, and huge expanse of what were public buildings and open gathering places. Perhaps 20,000 people would have lived in its surrounding terraced villages. Only 1.5 square miles of the 35 square miles of the site have been excavated and archeologists are working to uncover and discover more. If you are coming to Oaxaca, you don’t want to miss a visit to this impressive archeological site.

I recommend that you hire a guide (guia) when you get there. There are many on site who speak fluent English (and other languages) who will give you a much more personal and in-depth perspective of the Zapotec civilization. The cost is $25 USD for about 2 hours for up to 6 people. We hired Clemente Rodriguez Perez, who is very knowledgeable and personable. His cell phone number is 9515693006. Let him know I recommended you to him.

Monte Alban is to be savored. Plan to spend at least 3 hours there. It’s a lot of climbing up and down steep rock stairs, so you need plenty of time. To get there, take a tourist bus for 38 pesos per person round trip. The bus departs for Monte Alban at 10 a.m. and then not again until 12:30 p.m. It returns every hour on the hour starting at 1 pm. The station is located on Calle Mina. Go 3 blocks south of the Zocalo, turn right on Calle Mina, then continue for 3 blocks heading toward Abastos. It is on your left.

Please don’t hesitate to travel to Oaxaca. It is perfectly safe and easy to get to and get around in. The Zocalo is full of strolling visitors, flowers, music and balloon vendors. The main thoroughfares are open to easy pedestrian strolling. There are no encampments of demonstrators like there were in 2006. Recovery from these tragic and unfortunate events has been slow, and unfortunately public perception around these events has persisted even though the events dissipated long ago. Artisans and artists comment to me about the slowdown in tourism and how their livelihood has suffered. Fewer people from North America and Europe are here to purchase their beautiful handicrafts and artwork. Even with the devalued dollar, your tourist dollar goes far in Oaxaca and the archeology, art, history and cultural experience is unparalleled. Please don’t hesitate to come here because of safety. It remains a non-issue.

Today we had comida at El Descanso in Teotitlan del Valle. They make a great Tlayuda (sometimes spelled Clyuda), which is an extra large crispy flour tortilla smothered with great stuff and resembling the thin-crusted pizzas one gets in restaurants in Rome. You eat it open face, cutting it with a knife and fork or tearing off pieces and folding it over just like pizza. It makes a delicious and fast meal. We ordered these and aguas frescas de pepino (cucumber) — a cool beverage of cucumber juice mixed with water, lime juice and sugar. Muy delicioso!

Above, in the foreground, tlayuda con tesajo (seasoned and grilled beef, sliced thin) and in the background, tlayuda con pollo.  The drinks are Agua Fresca Limon (left) and Agua Fresca Pepino (right)

Tlayuda For One:

1- 12″ flour tortilla toasted in the oven or on a stove top griddle

1/2 tomato, sliced thin

1/2 cup Queso Oaxaqueno (Oaxaca string cheese)

1/4 cup black beans, pulverized into a paste

1/4 cup diced onions, sauteed

1/2 avocado, sliced

1/4- 1/2 cup chicken pieces

Red or Green Salsa to taste

Spread the tortilla completely with the black bean paste. Evenly distribute the cheese over the top, then do the same with the chicken pieces, onions, tomato and avocado. Drizzle with salsa. Heat under broiler for 5 minutes or until cheese melts and chicken is lightly browned. One tlayuda will serve one person. Optional additional ingredients: diced peppers, diced pineapple; substitute pork or beef for the chicken.