Oaxaca: An Economic Boon for Visitors

Mexico has always been a bargain, but it is even more so today.  The peso is hovering between 12 and 13 pesos to the dollar.  This region is famous for its textiles — gorgeous backstrap handloomed garments made by indigenous women in local villages using the finest cotton and natural dyes, incredible filagree silver and gold jewelry crafted with perfection by masters who have learned from the generations before them, extraordinary wool tapestry rugs that have been dyed with natural plant materials.  All about 20 to 30 percent less than they were six months ago when the peso was stronger than the dollar.

Yesterday I did a bit of lookie-loo sightseeing in the upscale shopping area around Santo Domingo church and found a gold and silver filagree ring inset with white sappires at Oro de Monte Alban (on Gurrion) for $317.  Last year the same ring sold for over $450 USD.  For me, it was eye candy and I did not buy, but if you’re coming to Oaxaca to take home something very special, this could be it!

I also met with Brigitte, a French emigre, and friend of my sister, who has been living in Oaxaca for 15 years.  She is a jewelry artist silversmith and creates beautiful 925 silver pieces employing wax molds that are carved with traditional Mixtec, Zapotec and Aztec designs.  Her studio is Kanda Jewelry Workshop in San Augustin Etla and she can be reached at 951-521-3100 in Oaxaca or send her an email to make an appointment for a showing at: Kandamex@yahoo.com Her work can be found in high end galleries around town, but you can buy direct at a substantial savings.  Brigitte will be happy to meet you for an Agua Fresca at La Olla, too.

At Amate Books, you might want to pick up a newly published paperback by photographer Christopher Stowens, titled The Carvers of San Martin Tilcajete, a Directory of Artesans.  It sells for $180 pesos.  The photographs are lovely and it is an excellent guide to some of the more accomplished woodcarvers of this village off the Ocotlan highway.  A map to the carvers houses/workshops is included.  Contact cstowens@gmail.com for more information.  A sociology professor at Benito Juarez University told me recently that San Martin Tilcajete is at risk of losing its carving traditions because of the deline in tourism, so if you want to do something beneficial to support the local economy, make a visit there!

Easy Recipe: Caldo de Pollo Terra Nova

The main meal of the day in Mexico is comida that they call “lunch” but for Estadounidenses would be more like “dinner” since it is the most substantial meal of the day.  When one eats comida at 3 .m. or 4 p.m., the last meal of the day, “cena,” is not taken until 8 or 9 p.m.  It is lighter and usually consists of a soup and quesadillas.  Eric and Elsa love La Terra Nova on the Zocalo, so we found ourselves a seat close to the edge where we could watch the passing parade and order cena.  Their cena was flan and the quesadillas that I couldn’t eat all of!  I ordered the Caldo de Pollo at 30 pesos ($3 more or less) and it really is a meal in itself (which is why I shared the quesadillas, 4 for $680 pesos with guacamole and black beans and chips).    Here’s the recipe.

Serves One.  Increase for more people.

Homemade chicken stock, 2 cups

1/2 cup of shredded chicken

1/4 cup diced green beans

1/4 cup large cut fresh carrots, parboiled

1 T. diced onion

1/4 cup diced avocado

optional: small slice serrano pepper, seeded

Combine all ingredients, except the avocado, and heat until hot.  Carrots should be soft to the bite.  Ladle into bowl.  Add avocado for garnish.

12 Grapes and 12 Wishes–Doce Uvas y Doce Esperanzas

We are at La Terra Nova sitting at a cafe table.  It is dark but the zocalo is alight with the stars of twinkling white electric Christmas candles.  A bedecked tree rises three stories.  A gold painted mime entertains locals and visitors in one corner.  A Christmas posada of school children come by, the girls carrying decorated baskets on their heads, the boys wearing Joseph costumes, accompanied by parents.  A teen band of trumpeters and saxophonists bring up the rear.  After they pass, a group of excellent ranchero musicians assemble to play for pay right in front of us.  The air is warm yet beginning to chill and I wrap my cochineal-dyed rebozo (shawl) around my shoulders. The zocolo gardens are stuffed with noche buena (poinsettias).  Children twirl and dance.  Tourists stroll arm in arm.

Eric, Elsa and I are sipping Micheladas.  It is the Terra Nova version:  maggi, salsa picante, lots of lime juice and beer.  It doesn’t have tomato juice and I’m not as fond of it.  I ask Elsa why Oaxaquenos eat 12 grapes at the new year.  She says that each grape represents the month of the year, and as you eat each grape you make a wish for something important for that month.  I ask her what she wishes for and she says she only wants good health and meaningful work.  We say, a su salud, to your health.  It is a good wish.